London – Paris – Rouen – Paris

Well, my plans to update this blog after every city haven’t really worked out … I’m currently in my second Paris stint, the first being bookended by London and Rouen. I’d blame the fact that I’ve been too busy enjoying Europe to write about it (which is true). But it’s also true that travel is a topic I find hard to write about: I’m acutely aware that what has been interesting to me might be dead boring to the reader at home. I think the solution is to pad this out with lots of pictures …

 Tower of London selfie

London … I don’t have much to say about London. Not that I didn’t enjoy it – I definitely did. But it was largely met my expectations of having miserable weather, being culturally similar to Australia, and being a lively ‘international’ city. Very cool. Though perhaps less cool in years to come as Brexit happens and the English retreat underneath their protectionist blankie. (What were they thinking?)

Piccadilly Circus 

Big Ben

Paris … Paris is just beautiful. The tree lined streets, cafes and brasseries on every corner – exactly what I was hoping for. My thoughts on the stereotypes:

One, the French do seem to operate on a different sense of time here. Unless I have a good hour to spare, I’ve taken to getting my morning coffee a emporter (takeaway) as who knows how long it will take to be served and pay the bill. However, when I have the time – and given I’m only holidays, I mostly do – sitting in a Parisian café in the sun, sipping coffee and people watching is a good life to live.

Two, the French are not as rude as pop culture makes them out to be, but neither are they over-the-top friendly. Insouciance is a thing. I’ve not yet been yelled at for not speaking (much) French. But when I said (in French) “sorry, but I don’t speak very good French” to a guy at the tourist desk, he challenged me with “why not?” Well, because I’m here for a month and it takes years to become genuinely fluent in another language, so it’s not really worth it buddy! But mostly they’ve been tolerant and patiently let me try to mangle their language before gently continuing the conversation in English.

Notre Dame

As for touristy things, I’ve done Notre Dame by day and the Eiffel Tower by night: both genuinely magnificent. I’ve rambled through the lush gardens and crumbling tombs of the Cimetiere du Pere Lachaise in the drizzling rain, and looked over the graves of Edith Piaf, Jim Morrison and Oscar Wilde. I’ve browsed the books of Shakespeare & Company, and drank beer on the banks of the Canal St Martin. All delightful. More to come.

Edith Piaf's grave

Rouen … was the highlight of my trip so far. Gorgeously picturesque with it’s quaint old buildings and grand churches. My French AirBnB host was fantastic, and went out of her way to give me the authentic French experience – or was it the idealized French experience? Either way, I enjoyed it immensely: sitting on the roof of the church next to her apartment arguing politics while drinking Bordeaux and eating Neufchatel cheese on crusty bread; shopping at the local markets for croissants and brioche; making crepes from scratch. 

French breakfast

Other highlights included, more sitting in cafes drinking coffee or wine, more pretty churches, and a bizarre museum that seemed to combine the history of the writer Gustav Flaubert with the history of medical devices. None of the explanatory plaques were in English, so the reason for this will remain a mystery. Due partly (completely) to my incompetence, I missed out on day trips to the Normandy coast and Jumiege, so I’m contemplating coming back to Rouen at the end of my trip, if time permits.

Exhibit at the Gustav Flaubert Museum?!?

A Bonaparte on a horse.

Anyway, I must be off to do more of the things. I’ve got a few more days in Paris, then on to Dijon, Lyon and Nice. Now ... back to the wine!