Well, my plans to update this blog after
every city haven’t really worked out … I’m currently in my second Paris stint,
the first being bookended by London and Rouen. I’d blame the fact that I’ve
been too busy enjoying Europe to write about it (which is true). But it’s also
true that travel is a topic I find hard to write about: I’m acutely aware that
what has been interesting to me might be dead boring to the reader at home. I think
the solution is to pad this out with lots of pictures …
London … I don’t have much to say about
London. Not that I didn’t enjoy it – I definitely did. But it was largely met
my expectations of having miserable weather, being culturally similar to
Australia, and being a lively ‘international’ city. Very cool. Though perhaps
less cool in years to come as Brexit happens and the English retreat underneath
their protectionist blankie. (What were they thinking?)
Piccadilly Circus
Big Ben
Paris … Paris is just beautiful. The tree
lined streets, cafes and brasseries on every corner – exactly what I was hoping
for. My thoughts on the stereotypes:
One, the French do seem to operate on a
different sense of time here. Unless I have a good hour to spare, I’ve taken to
getting my morning coffee a emporter (takeaway)
as who knows how long it will take to be served and pay the bill. However, when
I have the time – and given I’m only holidays, I mostly do – sitting in a
Parisian café in the sun, sipping coffee and people watching is a good life to live.
Two, the French are not as rude as pop
culture makes them out to be, but neither are they over-the-top friendly.
Insouciance is a thing. I’ve not yet been yelled at for not speaking (much)
French. But when I said (in French) “sorry, but I don’t speak very good French”
to a guy at the tourist desk, he challenged me with “why not?” Well, because
I’m here for a month and it takes years to become genuinely fluent in another
language, so it’s not really worth it buddy! But mostly they’ve been tolerant
and patiently let me try to mangle their language before gently continuing the
conversation in English.
Notre Dame
As for touristy things, I’ve done Notre Dame by day and the
Eiffel Tower by night: both genuinely magnificent. I’ve rambled through the lush
gardens and crumbling tombs of the Cimetiere du Pere Lachaise in the drizzling
rain, and looked over the graves of Edith Piaf, Jim Morrison and Oscar Wilde.
I’ve browsed the books of Shakespeare & Company, and drank beer on the
banks of the Canal St Martin. All delightful. More to come.
Edith Piaf's grave
Rouen … was the highlight of my trip so
far. Gorgeously picturesque with it’s quaint old buildings and grand churches.
My French AirBnB host was fantastic, and went out of her way to give me the
authentic French experience – or was it the idealized French experience? Either
way, I enjoyed it immensely: sitting on the roof of the church next to her
apartment arguing politics while drinking Bordeaux and eating Neufchatel cheese
on crusty bread; shopping at the local markets for croissants and brioche;
making crepes from scratch.
French breakfast
Other highlights included, more sitting in cafes
drinking coffee or wine, more pretty churches, and a bizarre museum that seemed
to combine the history of the writer Gustav Flaubert with the history of
medical devices. None of the explanatory plaques were in English, so the reason
for this will remain a mystery. Due partly (completely) to my incompetence, I
missed out on day trips to the Normandy coast and Jumiege, so I’m contemplating
coming back to Rouen at the end of my trip, if time permits.
Exhibit at the Gustav Flaubert Museum?!?
A Bonaparte on a horse.
Anyway, I must be off to do more of the
things. I’ve got a few more days in Paris, then on to Dijon, Lyon and Nice. Now ... back to the wine!
